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| FENCE
INSTALLATON
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1. |
One way to dig your post
holes is with a clamshell digger. This is pretty hard
work, and if you've got a lot of holes or hard ground
you should rent a power auger. |
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2. |
It usually take two people to run
it. Even with the power auger, digging post holes is tough
work. |
3. |
In most areas, you want your posts
below the frost line, so when the ground heaves from frost,
the post will stay in place. |
| 4. |
Our building codes specify
that posts be dug down 42 inches. We actually only need
the corner posts, or posts around a gate that deep. For
our middle posts, or "line posts", we dug down
36 inches. |
| 5. |
Obviously, in warmer areas,
the frost line isn't this deep. A good rule-of-thumb is
that you should bury about a half of the corner posts,
and about a third of the line posts underground. |
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1. |
Redwood, cedar or treated
posts will resist rot and decay, but it's still a good
idea to put a five or six inch layer of gravel at the
bottom of each hole. |
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2. |
The gravel will allow any water that
collects at the bottom of the hole to drain away. |
| 3. |
Set the end posts first. It's a good
idea to use concrete to set these. |
4. |
Line up the post edge along your layout
string. You should also use a 4-foot level to make sure
that the post is plumb in both directions. |
5. |
Brace the post in place while the concrete
cures. |
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6. |
The line posts require a lot less support.
In most cases it's ok to set them with dirt. |
| 7. |
Use a spacer to get a consistent distance
between the posts. When the post is in position, shovel
dirt in around it. |
| 8. |
Once you've got three or four inches
of dirt in, pack the dirt down, using the end of a 1x2,
then keep filling it up. |
9. |
When all the posts are
set hard, trim the tops to the proper height. |
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1. |
There can be many pieces
that make up the panels of your fence. Stringers are the
pieces that run horizontally between the posts and support
the fence boards. Where these go on your fence depends
on your fence design. |
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2. |
Allow at least a couple of inches below
the bottom stringer to prevent rot and to make it easier
to mow. |
| 3. |
One way to attach the stringers is
to cut them to fit in between the posts and toe nail them
to the posts. |
4. |
You can also dado out a section of
the post and set stringers in flush with it. |
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5. |
Always used galvanized nails on any
project that will come in contact with moisture. |
6. |
Install the stringers square, and be
careful not to knock your posts out of plumb. |
| 7. |
Your fence panels can be any design
you want. You can put up vertical pickets, lattice, or
pre-made panels. It looks best if you keep all the panels
consistent and symmetrical. |
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1. |
Plan on leaving at least
a quarter inch space on each side of your gate for swinging
clearance. |
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2. |
It helps to build the gate on a flat
piece of plywood or particleboard. |
| 3. |
For this picket fence gate, we used
two cross pieces and a diagonal piece for support. |
| 4. |
Nail these pieces to the plywood, then
nail them to each other. |
| 5. |
Attach your panel design
to the support pieces. In our case it was pickets. |
6. |
Take out the nails holding
the gate to the plywood.
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7. |
Set the gate in place using
blocks to set it at the right height and spacers to keep
it the proper distance from the posts. |
8. |
Use strong corrosive-resistant
hardware and screws to attach the gate to the posts. |
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1. |
Set the corner posts for
a chain-link fence first. |
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| 2. |
Let the concrete set up a bit and then
make your final adjustments so they're plumb in both directions.
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| 3. |
Once the concrete is dry, use the corner
posts to string lines to line up the middle posts. |
| 4. |
Usually chain-link fence posts are
spaced about 10 feet apart. |
| 5. |
Make sure your concrete is totally
cure before installing the fencing fabric because this
puts a lot of tension on the posts. |
| 6. |
An alternative to setting your posts
in concrete is to use an anchoring system with stakes. |
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| 7. |
Using this method you can set the posts
to the exact height you need. Posts set in concrete need
to be cut off at the right height with a pipe cutter. |
8. |
The top rail goes through loop caps
on top of the line posts. This rail forms the top frame
that the fencing stretches across. |
| 9. |
One way to attach the stringers is
to cut them to fit in between the posts and toe nail them
to the posts. |
10. |
Roll the fencing out on
the outside of the fence. If you need to extend the fencing
you can weave two pieces together with a single strand.
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11. |
Attach the fabric to a
post at one end of the fence. You do this with a tension
bar and tension bands. |
12. |
Loosely tie all the fencing
to the top rail. Then stretch the fencing by hand as far
as you can. |
| 13. |
Use a winch, made especially
for this type of job, to pull the fencing until it's tight.
Then permanently attach the fencing to the posts and top
rail. |
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